Thanks to Manuel and all the good folks down at West Steel and Plastics I got my beautiful battery box back today. It fits perfectly and as you can see… holds all 12 SE 180Ah batteries. Yesterday and today have been the most frustrating since I’ve started this project. To start I changed some hoses on my cooling system because I needed to clean it up. That being done I decided to test it, good thing too. It is not functioning, by that I mean the pump turns but no fluid is circulating. After agonizing over it and trying different configurations I have decided to shorten the whole system. I am mounting the cooler fan under the plate where the muffler used to be. that will shorten the system by about 10 feet. It will also put the cooler right in the slip stream under the car. Next I will be mounting the pump higher and just below the vent on the right hand side. This will put the pump where it doesnt have to pump uphill. It will also provide easier access to the pump. This must be done before I put the rest of the car together because, without cooling there is no car… not one I want to drive anyway.
Keep On Pluggin
I forgot to post this… I also submitted to West Steel and Plastics the drawing for my newly designed controller mount. The mount will be bolted to the front of the motor between the motor mount and the face of the motor. Right now I have spacers in the location just stated. The mount wil be installed so that the round part is 180 deg from the motor mount coming to a bend which will allow the mount to clear the battery boxes. then another bend and the whole thing widens into a table so as to be able to acommodate the chill plate and controller. there will be a tab cut out to mount the throttle position sensor. This tab is accomplished by cutting along the dotted line and bendingall but the tab 90 deg downward so that the end can rest on the motor adapter.
Today Started out with the idea in mind to continue working on the cooling system. I was mearly going to find the pin on the relay board which turns on and off with the ignition key and somehow use it to turn on and off the cooling system with the ignition switch. Then I saw the hookup I did yesterday and realized that the hose might get in the way of the battery racks and I did not like it. Then as I was trying think of a different configuration I suddenly saw the old fuel pump on the bench…hmmm more re-purposing? YES! I swapped out the two pumps with each other and immediately saw and felt the difference, this pump was made for this car. It is quiet and pushes about 35# pressure. I was still faced with the problem that the fuel pump was part of a fuel injection system and was origianally activated by a signal coming from the pressure regulator to the fuel pump relay. I didn’t need any of that stuff. All I needed was 12 volt signal to the fuel pump relay which was activated by the ignition switch. So I started troubleshooting with a multimeter. For those of you who may be new to troubleshooting, it is basically a process of elimination. In my case I had a 14 pin connector, a multimeter, and an ignition switch. The objective was to…
a) Measure all 14 pins with an ohmmeter Locate all the ground terminals
b) Measure all 14 pins with a voltmeter with ignition off
c) Measure all 14 pins with a votmeter with ignition on
I made a little chart to keep track and discovered the following.
Pin 8 and Pin 3 had a 12 volt signal with the ignition on. My Haynes manual has a great drawing of the relay mother board so by following where the ignition acivtated pins led I was able to jump from the power supply relay which comes on with the ignition switch, to the fuel pump relay. So now when I turn the key the car comes to life, the fuel pump relay activates, and the re-purposed to cooling pump comes on. Simple…it only took me all day…
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Just curious… Today I finished hooking up the cooling loop minus the chill plate to see if there are any leaks and if there is adequate circulation. I am happy to report all systems go! It was necessary to figure out how to turn on the fuel pump circuit as it was activated by the fuel injection computer which I did remove and sold with the motor. I got out the schematic and thought “hey I can reinstall the circuit board and have pleanty of hot wires for hooking up the electronics later ie controller etc.” I found the relay that activates the fuel pump and using a jumper sent a signal to the circuit… worked like a champ. So I am going to keep yet another part I thought I would not be using. This is getting good… re-purposing is very much like recycling… its fun when you get creative.
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I want to plumb the cooling system for the controller prior to putting in the battery racks. I have been thinking about this for quite some time. One thing I learned from building EV1E is the importance of keeping the cars wiring, vents, fuel lines, air injection system, intact as one might find a use for these seemingly nonsensical extras later down the road. By nonsense I mean for example, what on earth do you need a fuel system for in an electric car? You don’t but you can use the fuel lines which are already plumbed from where the gas tank used to be to where the engine used to be which is perfect for my re-purposing project. I am putting the Radiator and fan in the front of the car which ironically is where the gas tank used to be then I am running my hoses to the back of the car which again ironically is where the the fuel pump and engine used to reside. In between these two places are two beautiful fuel lines which run the length of the car. when I saved them I thought they might make a good conduit or something… this is even better. The pump I purchased from EVTV MotorVerks is about 2mm bigger in diameter then the original fuel pump I only had to swap the bracket and it mounts in the same place the fuel pump did. The wiring harness has the connector for the fuel pump right there I only have to plug it in.
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Today is Tuesday OCT 1 2013 and I fell asleep watching the Beatles Anthology when suddenly I was awoken with an Idea. Hypothysis… why can’t I use the fuel pump system for a cooling system for the Porsche 914, or any other vehicle? This would eliminate having to re-plumb the car and obviously there would be an already plumbed former fuel system to tap into on any former ICE vehicle. It is now 2240 hrs and I am excited about this prospect. I have just hooked up my fuel pump to my power supply at 5 volts and it ran just fine! Of course my hands smell like old gasoline and I will have to research why there are three orifaces on the stock fuel pump, but I think I may be on to something. Why can’t we pump Ethylglycol and H2O through the same system? Maybe it’s the gas fumes … but I think this may work! I will let you know…
Keep On Pluggin